So, let’s take Travis Cloke—an All–Australian, premiership centre half–forward. He’s a monolith, for sure. One that belongs in coliseums like the M.C.G.. But it doesn’t matter that he’s a tough–built, 6’4” warrior—he still opts for a sharp–as–hell fitted suit.

Here’s the takeaway: whether you’re athletic, small and relentlessly slim (lucky bastard), or carrying a little extra, the answer to your style question is always the same. Wear it snug.

Here’s why:

The Athletic Man
Myth: Your extra muscle means you need an extra size of room.

Why you should keep it slim: A narrow–cut suit will accentuate the build of your torso, showing off your hard work instead of drowning it in fabric. Even more true for your legs—hem until you’ve got only a light break.

The Large Man
Myth: You think a roomier suit will hide your extra weight.

Why you should keep it slim: A more fitted cut will accentuate your chest, bringing attention to your upper body. (Instead of, y’know, your gut). Work with a tailor and keep everything in proportion: a big man needs a big tie.

The Short Man
Myth: A large suit will make you look bigger.

Why you should keep it slim: A big suit will make your legs shorted and your torso emptier. Instead, work to make your suit slimline: one or two buttons for a longer physique, and very little break to keep your silhouette sleek.