Style Note: If a suit doesn’t fit in the shoulders, it doesn’t fit. A suit should be snug and emboldening. If you pull on a jacket and feel only droop, size down until you don’t.

Style Note: A two-button stance is the stylish man’s default setting. A little on the short side? Embrace a punchy, single button suit and lengthen your torso.

• The Arms: Never let your jacket arms sag, or billow out like a pirate. Cut down on excess fabric and keep the silhouette sleek.
• The Waist: If you’re a bigger guy, don’t think rocking a roomy suit is hiding anything (it’s just slapdash). Instead, nip right in around your waste—accentuate your chest and shoulders.
• The Sleeves: Allow for a ¼ inch of cuff to show—always.
• Pants: Keep very little break to nail a long, sharp look. If your suiting is in heavier, winter fabric, consider a cuff.
  
  

Style Note: The more modern and tailored your suit, the shorter you can pick your jacket length. Look to the Italians to take the lead in a sharp, flattering cut. Remember: It’s all about body proportion. A longer jacket will shorten your legs. Similarly, if you’re top-tall, keep length and ditch the lanky look for good.